Abu Nader Deli and Grocery

The Food Snob

With food this good, who needs ambiance? There’s no curb appeal to Abu Nader, a Middle Eastern deli and ethnic market.  The sterile white exterior and cluster of bare tables alongside shelves of institutional size olive containers don’t exactly beckon.  Neither do the paper plates, disposable utensils, and pre-packaged plastic containers of dips and salads.  But look a little closer and the delights begin to reveal themselves. 

That’s homemade pita dough rising under a brightly patterned cloth, and shawarma (called gyros elsewhere) sizzling on a spit.  Even more impressive are the plates coming out of the open kitchen (order at the counter for carry-out or eating in), laden with giant sandwiches.  The Abu Nader Special is a pita pocket packed with romaine lettuce, a nutty tahini (sesame) sauce and beef meatballs with a haunting flavor of allspice.

Once the lids are off those plastic deli containers, the tabuleh salad proves to be packed with parsley and tomatoes, and just enough bulgur (cracked wheat) to add substance.  The smoky baba ghanouge (eggplant spread) and ful m’damas (cumin-kicked fava beans) are superior to, and – at $2.99 – cheaper than, their mass-produced counterparts elsewhere.  So is the hummus, which makes a wonderful bed for fresh crispy ovals of homemade chickpea fritters on the $5.99 falafel platter. 

Middle Eastern food is not as popular, or well respected, as many other cuisines.  That’s a shame because it’s healthy, interesting, and infinitely varied. Unfortunately, much of what is served out there is not very good.  Greasy gyros, oily hummus, and doughy falafel are the norm. 

Abu Nader is different.  The food is fresh, balanced, delicately spiced, and most important, delicious.

The Bachelor Maybe Disney is to blame. Other than “Aladdin,” I can’t recall any other influence from my youth that could be responsible for my fascination with magic carpets. And who wouldn’t be – lounging about on a fuzzy-duckling soft silk rug as you glide effortlessly above the clouds.  

Unfortunately, this obsession has resulted in my reducing all the historical and cultural treasures of the Middle East into a single stereotype: flying rugs.  Anyhoo, imagine my disappointment when I walked into Abu Nader and saw nary a magic carpet. Sure, there were other pieces of art, but I wanted my magic carpet.  Fortunately, my pouting ended once I ordered the chicken shawarma sandwich. Even before the first bite, I was smiling at the sheer heft of the thing.  She was a plenty big sandwich, about the size and weight of a softball.  Plus the whole thing was neatly contained in a pita pocket – no need for cumbersome silverware.  

My satisfaction only increased once I actually bit into the sandwich.  Chicken (so bland on its own) was brought to life by subtle spicing, and some white stuff they tell me is yogurt and cucumber sauce.  For $5.99, it’s the perfect lunch for the Subway burn-out. 

For dessert, I grudgingly agreed to try the Arabic coffee. (I’m not normally a coffee drinker.)  Let me announce first: I am an uncultured baboon. That being said, this coffee was the worst thing I’ve ever put in my mouth, although it probably tasted exactly like it was supposed to. Going to the gas station across the street and putting the Super Unleaded pump in my mouth would have been more refreshing. Unless you’re a connoisseur of exotic coffees or some sort of masochist, I’d head right to the baklava instead.  

Abu Nader also features a grocery store with all sorts of Middle Eastern foods. But for the Bachelor, concepts such as “ingredients” and “cooking” are beyond my grasp.  

The Cheapskate

The Bachelor is right: He is an uncultured baboon. The Arabic coffee he spurns ($3.99 for a pot to share) is exquisite – thick, sweet, and robustly spiced with cardamom.  Frankly, I think the manly sputtering is a cover-up for a bit of manly insecurity.  I caught him looking furtively around to be sure no babes were watching when he realized there was no way to drink from that tiny, china demitasse without sticking out his pinky.

The Bachelor’s personal issues aside, that little pot of coffee, split two ways with the Food Snob, was the perfect ending to a delicious, nourishing, and modestly priced meal.

If you’re unsure how to pronounce the food at Abu Nader, fear not. This is a friendly place.  Just point to the menu or to something appealing in the deli case. On your first visit, you could try the Middle Eastern rice, a sort of hotdish full of mildly herbed ground meat plus lots of toasted pine nuts. (Abu Nader doesn’t skimp on this pricy ingredient, which won big points with me.) A good alternative is the mjadarah, a lentil-based dish that is also subtly flavored and very satisfying for a meatless entrée.

The moment your entrée arrives, set aside half of it. Eat the rest with a side order of tabuleh for just the right contrast of vivid color and tanginess. That will bump your tab up toward $10, but it will yield two generous meals.  The reassurance of a bulging take-out container helped me justify the splurge of delightful, Bachelor-free coffee, and even a bite of baklava for dessert.

I have made discreet inquiries about Abu Nader. My neighbors who used to live in Jerusalem crave the authentic flavors of the classic humus and tabuleh, and are also partial to the savory turnovers and the ful m’damas. Another friend, who is allergic to walnuts, appreciates Abu Nader’s willingness to bake up a tray of pistachio baklava just for her if she calls a day or two ahead – and to sell her as much or as little as she wants.  A vegetarian friend rejoices that the meatless entrées are treated with the same care as the meat-based dishes.

And finally, I’ve noticed that a colleague has picked up a regular Abu Nader habit after I took her there. Yesterday I tried sitting next to her in the lunchroom and looking hungry.  So far, so good.

 

Abu Nader Deli and Grocery
2095 Como Avenue (at Raymond)
651-647-5391
Monday – Saturday 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. (grocery story opens at 9 a.m.)
Closed Sunday.